Bikes & Gear

BIKES

We decided to dash our savings on some customized, dog friendly touring bikes.

COMPONENT	Zoa and Jack’s Setup	Fin and Paco’s Setup
FRAME/FORK	Surly Long Haul Trucker 54cm olive	Surly Big Dummy 20″
DRIVE TRAIN
Crankset/BB	Shimano XT M770	Truvativ (mix match from the LBS)
Chain	SRAM PC-991 Cross Step	SRAM PC-991 Cross Step
Front Derailleur	Shimano XT FD-M760	Shimano XT FD-M760
Back Derailleur	Shimano XT RD-M760 SGS, Long Cage	Shimano XT RD-M760 SGS, Long Cage
Cassette	Shimano LX CS-M760 11-34T, 9 Speed	Shimano LX CS-M760 11-34T, 9 Speed
SHIFTERS
Shifters	Shimano Deore XT Style Thumbshifter Kit 9 Speed	Shimano Deore XT Style Thumbshifter Kit 9 Speed
STEERING
Headset	Cane Creek S3	Cane Creek S3
Stems	Ritchey Black Adjustable	Ritchey Black
		Generic 135×40 for Handle Bar bag mount
Handlebar	Modolo Yuma Traveller Bar	Titec Hellbent H-Bar
	Brooks Leather Tape brown
SEATING
Saddle	Brooks B-67 Brown, sprung	Brooks B-67 Black, sprung
Seatpost	Ritchey Seatpost	Ritchey Seatpost
BRAKING
Brakes & Levers	Avid Single Digit 7 & Speed Dial 7	Magura HS-33 hydraulic rim brakes
WHEELS
Builder	SJS, Hand Built	SJS, Hand Built
Front Hub	36 hole Shimano XT 770	36 hole Shimano XT 770
Rear Hub	36 hole Shimano XT 770	36 hole Shimano XT 770
Rims	26”, 36 hole Sun Rhyno	26”, 36 hole Sun Rhyno
Spokes	DT Swiss Alpine III	DT Swiss Alpine III
Tires	Schwalbe Marathon XR (26” x 1.65”)	Schwalbe Marathon XR (26” x 2”)
Fenders	SKS – chromoplastic Silver	SKS – chromoplastic Silver
STORAGE
Front Rack	Rolle (German)	Tubus Ergo
Rear Rack	Tubus Logo	Xtracycle Long Tail Kit
		Xtracycle Wide Loaders
Front Panniers	Ortileb Front Roller Plus	Ortileb Front Roller Plus
Back Panniers	Ortileb Back Roller Classic	Xtracycle Freeloader Bags
Handlebar Bag		Ortlieb Ultimate 5 Classic
BITS & BOBS
Pedals	Shimano PD-M324	Shimano PD-M324
Mirror	D+D Oberlauda Bike Mirror	D+D Oberlauda Bike Mirror
Kickstand	Pletscher ESGE KS13 Multi Zoom Single Leg	Pletscher ESGE KS13 Multi Zoom Single Leg
Cycle Computer	Cateye Enduro 8
Builder	Reinoud, bicycle geek extraordinaire	A-Bikes, Leuven
TRAILER
Frame	Cycletote Super Deluxe Doggy Tote large
Brakes	Cycletote Drum Brakes
Rims	26”, 36 hole Zac’s
Tires	Schwalbe Marathon XR (26” x 2”)	GERG

GEAR

Clothing

Wool vs Synthetics…

We love wool and natural fibers over synthetic clothing paws down. Wool does have it’s limitations though:

Warning 1: we have found that thin merino wool clothing like Icebreaker, while being super comfy on the skin and being very good for keeping the smell factor down, has a more limited lifespan. After months of intense wearing, many small holes develop in the fabric, and it can start to look like polka dots. This is considered just normal ‘wear and tear’ and is not covered under warranty. Have a needle and thread on hand.

Warning 2: wool is good for retaining heat while it is wet, but once everything you own is damp cycling and camping is not fun. Fingertips and toes go numb, strong winds chill the bones and it is easy to become cranky. So if you decide not to stop and hide every time it rains, quality rain wear can become very appealing, most of which is made from synthetic, nonrenewable petrochemicals.

The Waterproof Swindle…

The challenge of cycling rainwear is to get the right balance between waterproof and breathability. Waterproof is a very subjective term. Something labeled as ‘waterproof’ in a shop may only keep you dry for about 15 to 30 minutes during heavy rain. Not very helpful unless you are heading for shelter the second the sky breaks open. On the other extreme, completely waterproof rain gear is just as bad. Cycling in rain-gear designed for walkers and fisherman will result in the uncomfortable, personal “greenhouse” effect, where a heavy layer of sweat can soak your underlayers and skin just as quickly as the rain.

So, the answer? If you are bombing it downhill in a heavy downpour nothing will really keep you fully dry. A big, poncho style rain cape may be good in heavy rain, but provides little breathability (some people drape them over their handlebars so that airflow can still get into them). Gortex can withstand over 27,000 millimetres of water pressure without leaking, which is almost 20 times over the basic definition of waterproof. To maintain breathability a thin, lightweight Gortex is very effective, but also very expensive. For the most green/eco-friendly rainwear there is the Australian Drizabone oilcloth (also called “oilskin” or “wax cotton”), which was commonly used for raingear before plastics. Unlike most rain jackets it is extremely durable (decades instead of years) and is most popular for horseriding. I have not heard of anyone using it for cycling, but supposedly its natural cotton canvas allows the coats to breathe, while being made waterproof by a coating of oil once in a while. Maybe it is too stiff, too heavy, or not breathable enough? Anybody tried it?

I feel it in my fingers, I feel it in my toes…

The first victims of cold weather are normally numb fingertips and numb toes. We have trialed all sorts of socks and have realised a few things:

• Expensive, technical socks in adventure stores are usually a WASTE OF MONEY. They may seem to be the answer with slick marketing and talk about extreme mountain summits, but be warned our favourite and warmest socks are a simple pair of thick wool socks we picked up at a no-name kiosk in a tiny town in Norway.
• Cramming several pairs of socks into a boot doesn’t help much with the cold. Tightness and socks doesn’t equal warmth. Maybe you will need a larger boot for very cold regions?

Wool gloves are great for everyday use, comfortable and warm when they are a bit damp. If you are planning on cycling in very cold and rainy weather a second pair of waterproof gloves is recommended.

Cycling Footwear: To clip in or not to clip in?

Finding the right footwear is a very personal experience and probably best sorted out by trial and error.

For carefree days of summer cycling we tried out Teva Hurricane sandals. They are the cheapest Teva model, and the shop assistants tried their best to upsell fancier models, but the Hurricanes are flat, light, and very quick drying, ideal for cycling. The drawback is that with heavy loads and steep uphills where a lot of pressure is required, soft-soled footwear can result in foot compression, causing numbness/circulation problems. Such problems caused Zoa to trade in her Tevas for firm-soled cycling shoes.

Hiking boots are a cold weather favourite, and just as useful off the bike. Anything that is reasonably lightweight, firm-soled, while also providing some warmth will do. If you plan to be doing some cold weather cycling make sure you choose a boot size that will accommodate two pairs of socks: a thin, moisture wicking layer next to your skin, and a thick layer on top for insulation. If you are still having problems consider inserting an insole into the boot to insulate the bottom of the boot. If that fails take up knitting instead.

If your boots get wet take out the insoles and dry them by a campfire/cooking stove (not too close of course – as I soon found out). If they are still wet put the boots in a plastic bag and sleep with them in the bottom of your sleeping bag, or line your sleeping bag with a plastic bag and sleep with your boots on. Waterproof boots would be very handy, but they are also more expensive.

If you are deciding whether to clip in or not clip in, then this is worth reading…

Camping

Tent tips…

• Clean and lube your zippers and pole connections with silicone spray routinely to avoid stuck poles and jumpy zippers.
• Extra protection… Water is good at sneaking in from all angles, especially when it teams up with wind and mist. From the very beginning our MSR Hubba Hubba 2 person tent (complete with footprint) would soak up the moisture out of sodden ground and wet the bottom of our tent. Putting a cheap tarp in the bottom of the tent with the sides folded up (6 inches up the sides) helps a lot.
• Most campers agree that tents that are self standing are much more convenient than those that aren’t. Who knows where you will end up sleeping when you are tired and it’s getting dark?
• When choosing a campsite avoid frost pockets. During cold weather stay away from dips and valleys, and head for higher ground under the canopy of some trees. Low lying open fields and valleys collect all the cold air and turn into nasty frost pockets overnight making for a very unpleasant packing up experience

Sleeping Bags…

Another natural versus synthetic battle is the battle of the sleeping bags. In the natural corner weighing very little and stuffed with the fluffy undercoating of a bird’s plumage (geese, ducks, and other waterfowl) is the down sleeping bag. In the synthetic corner is the slightly heavier bundle of poly-fibers. For a blow-by-blow rundown on the advantages and disadvantages of both, click here.

We chose the Western Mountaineering Sycamore semi-rectangular bag because they are light weight (480g of 750 fill-power down) and can be joined together to create one super big cosy embryo. It has often become damp due to our imperfect tent, and been slow to dry, so we have been wondering whether synthetic would have been better. On cold nights the extra air bagginess of them compared to a mummy style bag can make it a little chilly. Everytime you turn, you turn into a cold pocket. So far they have got us through quite a few nights as low as -4 degrees. Not sure I’d want it much colder though. It is quite warm for summer nights but ok if loose.

Sleeping bags are designed to be stored in places where the fill is allowed to expand, aka not bicycle panniers. Compressing the insulation for extended periods of time weakens the loft of the product, and reduces its insulating qualities. We found the longer we have been on the road, the less fluffy and warm our sleeping bag has become. We are told that there are outdoor shops where you can get fresh down replaced.

Padding…

For a bit of sleeping comfort we went with the Thermarest Pro-Lite 3 Regular. They have been very comfy (who needs a mattress?), but more importantly they provide extra warmth and dryness by lifting your poor tired body from the cold, damp ground. We have had 3 punctures in twelve months, which were fixed on the first time by heating up a tube of Hot Bond in boiling water and then giving it a quick squeeze and spread. The Thermarest Trekker chairs, are a sleeve which turns your folded thermarest into a comfy, adjustable chair. They can be nice, but we have rarely bothered to use them.

Cooking…

For cooking we chose a MSR-XGK II stove (we’ve also heard good things about the Swedish brand Primus) because it takes loads of different fuel types. The cleanest burning is camping fluid, but we have rarely come across it. BBQ fuel didn’t work very well, so we stick to a steady diet of unleaded petrol which we store in a 1L and a 600ml fuel bottles. It has been very reliable, and is easily maintained. The only problem has been the foldable legs coming off the springs, so it no longer closes up properly. It only burns at one rate, super hot, so for simmering, and gentle cooking we found a circular metal BBQ plate handy.

Water…

With two thirsty dogs a 10L MSR Dromedary Bag has been important. If we are planning a cooking extravaganza or are a bit off the beaten track we try to fill it up late in the afternoon when we are close to looking for a campspot. It is made of tough material, and sits perfectly behind the seat of the Big Dummy, with a bungee strap attached to our basket. For washing vegies, clothes, laundry and washing dishes a 5L Ortlieb Sink has been great. It also folds up nicely for easy storage.

Food storage…

All of our food, bowls, mugs, and cutlery go in two 10L See Bags (being see-through saves frustrating searches). After 3 months of daily use though the foldable tops started splitting apart more and more (hello duct tape). After 12 months the foldable flaps are ragged, but with duct tape they are still working and keeping our food dry. They fit nicely in the Xtracycle freeloader bags of Fin’s longtail Big Dummy bike. For spices, keeping food light and dry, as well as stopping leaks we use Zip Lock Zipper bags (make sure you go with a zipper top to save yourself frustration).

Odds and Ends…

For a bit of extra light in the night Petzl Tikka Headlamps have been great. They take 3 AAA batteries.

Tektowels are small, lightweight and quick drying. Everything you’d want in a travel towel.